Took a photo of her this morning as I walked to work:

After some exhaustive work I finally managed to pull the instrument panel out of the dashboard without removing the dashboard itself. This wasn’t easy but the good folks at brickboards.com assured me it was possible and they were right. First I unscrewed the speedo cable and then pulled the wires out of the jacks on the back. Once I’d done this I wish I’d labelled the jacks but they look individualized enough that maybe it won’t be such a pain in the ass reconnecting them when I’m done? We’ll see.

I started by setting the whole thing on my desk:

I snapped some photos of the back before I started removing screws:

The little can on the bottom center with the 3 wires going into it is the voltage stabilizer.

This is where the speedo cable screws in:

Here’s some other photos of the front with the gauges portion separated from the speedometer cylinder. Separating these parts is a series of screws and it is very easy so I won’t bother going into the details. If you managed to get the instrument panel this far you can figure out how to disassemble it Just make sure not to lose any of those tiny screws!

OK. Now taking the voltage stabilizer off is a matter of carefully disconnecting the 3 wires that attach to it, which is easy – they are all secured by male/female crimp connectors. The voltage stabilizer is attached to the instrument panel by two metal tongs on the stabilizer that clip around a little rubber nub that is secured to the back of the instrument panel. Pictured here:

Next was the toughest part – I had to pry the lip back from the backplate of the stabilizer so that I could open it up. This I did with some careful work using a pair of needlenose pliers. I didn’t want to destroy the stabilizer housing. When I was done and opened it up it looks like this:

This is as far as I’ve gotten with the voltage stabilizer. I purchased a 5V regulator and a 0.01uF capacitor from Radio Shack for $3 and I will soon solder it to the proper points and begin testing. Hopefully this fixes my gauge problem and will provide a more reliable stabilizer for my nearly 40 year old instrument panel!

In the meantime I picked up a parts car – this one a 1972 164 with MT and electronic overdrive.  It’s in a bit of rough shape but it’s fuel injected which is a whole new set of problems challenges that my gullible friend Jim has agreed to help me get running this spring.  Here are some photos of the parts car (the seats aren’t in bad shape!):

http://flickr.com/photos/colten/sets/72157610912941316/

I grabbed a whole bunch of trim off the parts car and some incidentals like the original vinyl glovebox folder with ‘Volvo 164′ in silver lettering on it.  The parts car was apparently an extra in the film ‘Swedish Auto’ that was filmed right here in Charlottesville a few years ago.

It’s even fun changing the oil – but apparently I need the Chilton for that?

OK cylinder one at top dead center – check.  Cylinder five – poisonous spider.

Note the rather ghetto windshield wiper fluid container on the right.  I don’t believe it’s Folger’s crystals!

A photo like this would have saved me a LOT of time.  Note the little nub in the center of the photo on the timing wheel cover (?).  That is the timing mark.  The filthy wheel underneath has the marks on it.  I only saw that because a flashlight was shone at a particular angle.  I have since cleaned that wheel and marked the grooves with whiteout to making setting the timing easier.  This is how it is on my ‘71 but it may be different for other years.  I know, I know – it needs a new belt (among other things).